Wardrobe Revision: Style Made Simple
Eco-fashion is about more than your look; it's about how your look came to be. Designers who choose to integrate planetary consciousness into their clothing collections ask important questions: What kind of fiber was used to make that T-shirt? What type of dye was used to color that skirt? How did those pants get to this store? But though more and more designers—both established and new—are designing clothing with an environmental eye, greening your closet on a budget is not as simple as taking a trip to the mall. Try tossing around green lingo like "ingeo," "soy," "bamboo," "cocona," or "organic cotton" in your local clothing store and check out the looks you get.
But it is possible to fill your closet with affordable, stylish clothing that was made responsibly. You simply have to know where to look. As with conventional fashion, environmentally minded clothing created by the world's top designers carries some of the world's top prices. So to keep his or her wardrobe up to date, the fashion-forward, budget-conscious Lazy Environmentalist must rely upon a knack for uncovering deals and a willingness to embrace new designers, business practices, and retailers. Here's some advice for choosing the right looks for you and the planet.
KNOW THE MATERIALS
Green fashion begins with eco-conscious fabrics, so it's important to know your materials. Currently there is a (growing) list of materials that are considered healthful and more sustainable for humans and the planet. Organic cotton is the most prevalent—and accessible—of the bunch, accounting for about 70 percent of all eco-fashion sales. Unlike its conventional counterpart, organic cotton is grown without the use of toxic pesticides and insecticides—many of which are considered carcinogenic. Globally, 25 percent of all insecticides and 10 percent of all pesticides are sprayed on conventional cotton, so going organic not only removes the toxins from your T-shirts, underwear, and socks (and anything else made of cotton) but also eliminates a lot of poison from the environment. Fabrics made from other naturally grown crops like soy, corn (called "ingeo"), and bamboo are also considered earth-friendly because they grow and replenish rapidly. And many athletic garments include fabrics derived from coconut shells, which help moisture evaporate, absorb odor, enhance cooling, and provide UV protection. This wonder coconut fiber is called cocona, and it's currently being used by brands like Cannondale, Marmot, New Balance, and Champion.
On the other hand, synthetic fibers like nylon, spandex, and polyester are usually derived from oil, a finite resource that is presently at risk of being depleted and is also one of the main culprits of pollution and greenhouse gas emissions. But materials don't have to be grown to be earth friendly. Used plastic soda bottles made of PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) can be recycled and transformed into polyester products such as strappy dresses, comfy T-shirts, or cozy fleece pullovers. Recycling materials for clothing (or anything else for that matter) is an environmental win because it reduces our dependence on virgin natural resources, reduces the amount of energy necessary to convert those natural resources into new products, and helps keep waste out of landfills. Less waste in landfills equals less methane released into the atmosphere (methane is a greenhouse gas that's 20 times more harmful than carbon dioxide and is produced as garbage decomposes). Designers and fashion labels that utilize greener fibers are quite literally a breath of fresh air.
EMBRACE NEW FASHION LABELS
Those of us determined to green our jeans will find that most eco-aware denim is priced at or above $150 a pair. But there are exceptions. Good Society delivers high-style, fair-trade certified organic cotton jeans for about $100. Not only is the styling clean and sharp, but every pair purchased also helps provide fair wages for the workers who produce them in India. When we think about "going green," we typically focus on reducing our environmental impact. But fair-trade certification also ensures that the people making the products we use are not exploited in the process. This helps to create a web of positive change—a good society, if you will. And for Aiden Dingh, Good Society's co-founder, it's not enough to sell clothing that respects both the people who make it and the environment we live in, it's also essential to make those items affordable. While Sling and Stones, Dingh's original organic cotton denim line, carries designer prices, Good Society makes eco-chic clothing accessible to a broader audience. You can find the collection at big national retailers like Urban Outfitters and at smaller boutiques across the country. Good Society keeps the good going by giving 10 percent of its profits to environmental causes.
As eco-aware designers are busy experimenting with new materials and inventive manufacturing techniques, some are also altering the traditional business model. Nvohk, a surf-inspired, eco-clothing company believes that business as usual is business as boring. Based on a model called "crowd-funding," nvohk customers—or "members," as the company calls them—contribute $50 and are able to vote on every major business decision like company logo design, clothing design, and even advertising. Once 60 percent of the members agree on a course of action, the management team implements the decision. Members receive a 25 percent discount on all products and collectively share in 35 percent of all net profits via reward points that can be redeemed for nvohk clothing (the company's corporate structure prohibits the distribution of cash to its members). The model is designed to accommodate 40,000 members, but the business plan went into effect in June 2008 when 3,000 members had registered via the company's website, Projectnvohk.com. Nvohk is market-based supply-and-demand economics set at mach speed: cutting out the middlemen and channeling customer preferences (demand) directly into manufacturing decisions (supply). Like any new concept, nvohk will undoubtedly attract a fair share of detractors, but several thousand people are already jumping at the chance to be part of a company that feeds the green economy by utilizing sustainable materials like organic cotton while donating 10 percent of net profits to environmental organizations.
CHECK THE ESTABLISHED FASHION LABELS
Inspired by the sophisticated creations of the eco-fashion community, familiar fashion labels are also beginning to strut their eco-stuff. Guess and Eileen Fisher are among the brands debuting stylish, organic cotton collections. While not necessarily the most affordable way to green your wardrobe, these fashion labels get points for making green choices accessible to everyday shoppers. And bargain hunters know that big label items often end up on the racks at TJ Maxx and Marshall's, so that ultimate green deal may already be waiting for you.
You don't have to look hard to find a deal at Levi's. The most trusted name in denim reminds us that boutique brands aren't the only way to give your jeans an eco-boost. The Levis Eco collection features boot cut, straight, and slim cuts for men and women with prices that hover around $68 per pair (though if you head over to J.C. Penney you can usually find them on sale for closer to $40. J.C. Penney also offers Arizona Jeans's new eco-collection at irresistible prices. Instead of tossing the cotton in a landfill that's left over from its cotton mill, Arizona Jeans recycles it into jeans that retail for around $40 per pair. The company does the same thing with T-shirts. Incorporating 60 percent recycled cotton, the Ts can be yours for $20 each.
The ultimate in organic cotton basics can be found at Los Angeles–based American Apparel. The clothing manufacturer pays its workforce fair, living wages to produce a sexy, youthful organic line that has moved away from earthy beige and is now available in a rainbow of colors. American Apparel's snug-fit organic cotton Ts retail for $18 and are available in black, white, pomegranate pink, galaxy blue, dijon yellow, or cinder grey. The bright colors are also available in long-sleeve Ts, underwear, and one-pieces for babies and dogs. Visit Americanapparel.net to view the entire "Sustainable Edition" collection.
Interview
Summer Rayne Oakes is a model, social entrepreneur, television host, and author of Style Naturally: The Savvy Shopping Guide to Sustainable Fashion and Beauty. She has also teamed up with Payless to launch the company's eco-friendly Zoe & Zac collection.
How did you first hit upon the idea of using fashion as a medium for creating positive environmental change?
I was looking for an outlet back in 2001 to connect my environmental studies to people who normally didn't have these issues on their radar screens. Most of my buddies in college weren't the enviro types, so I needed cool outlets to get people to understand and care. Fashion is incredibly linguistic; it's very media-friendly, so it was a perfect outlet to communicate hard-to-understand issues in sustainability. As I learned more about the industry, I found out that it could be an incredible tool to not just communicate the issues but also foster real change for millions of people from going organic to buying fair trade.
Why is it so important to help companies like Payless go green?
It's awesome to work with Payless on their sustainability initiatives and their green shoe line, Zoe & Zac. The whole idea behind it is to "democratize" green which means scaling it up and making it affordable to more people. Often green products and services are only available to an elite few, so it's important to build the infrastructure that makes it possible for everyone to participate. What's also great is that while this green initiative is epitomized outwardly in a shoe, we're also beginning to create internal metrics and use sustainability as a source of innovation across Collective Brand's (Payless' parent company) other product lines. Sustainable change doesn't happen overnight. It's an evolution.
As an environmental activist do you feel it's appropriate to strive to be "Dressed to Kill?"
As much as I love schlepping around in sweats and a tee, keeping up appearances is important in making a good impression even for the baddest-ass environmentalists. I almost exclusively wear pieces that are either refurbished or are more ecologically or socially conscious. I purposely seek out items with a purpose. And the cool thing is that the sustainable fashion industry has matured so much and become more affordable, so it's more available to anyone who wants to live it, wear it, be it.
To stock up on trendy organic cotton duds at rock-bottom prices, hit your local H&M. The company continually features eco-clothing for the entire family. The products may be super affordable, but that doesn't mean that H&M mistreats the employees at its many factories around the globe. Quite the opposite in fact—as a member of the Fair Labor Association, H&M routinely receives high marks for its socially responsible practices. On the environmental front, the retailer has steadily increased its use of organic cotton from 40 tons in 2005 to 1,700 tons in its spring 2008 collection. That number is set to increase by 50% in 2009 as H&M also begins introducing clothing for men and women made from recycled cotton, wool, and polyester.
ENTER THE BIG BOX RETAILERS
There is no company on Earth that can match the purchasing power of Wal-Mart, the largest retailer in the world. So when the company decided that the environment was an important issue and that consumers should have easy access to affordable eco-minded products, big changes happened. Today Wal-Mart is the world's largest purchaser of organic cotton, which it spins into 100 percent organic cotton pajamas for adults and complete organic cotton lines for children. Wal-Mart also features Coca-Cola's Drink2Wear line of T-shirts made from 50 percent recycled Coca-Cola bottles, retailing for under $8 apiece and featuring witty eco-slogans like "Rehash Your Trash."
Target is also going green. In 2008, the company teamed up with eco-fashion designer Rogan Gregory to offer a limited-edition organic designer collection. Gregory is known for Loomstate, his organic denim line, as well as for his collaboration with Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson, on the socially responsible fashion label Edun. Through Target, Rogan introduced a 100-piece eco-fashion collection at prices most shoppers could afford. Within days of hitting store shelves, the collection was sold out, sending a resounding message to the fashion industry that consumers will shop green when the products are good and the price is right. Hopefully more companies will follow Target's lead.
EMBRACE REUSE
As discussed in Chapter 1 (The 3Rs: Reduce, Reuse & Recycle), fashionistas who are bored with their wardrobes can refresh their look without consuming new products. This money-saving strategy also helps to reduce the amount of materials that go into new products as well the energy required to make and ship them. Tattered jeans can be successfully repaired—not just patched—by Denim Therapy at its facility in Cincinnati. For $7 per inch of repair plus $12 for shipping, experts will repair holes and rips and restore the look and feel of your jeans by considering the unique thread weight, fade, wash, pattern, weave, wear, and look of your go-to pair. Pop your jeans in the mail, and they'll be back to you and better than ever in just two to three weeks.
Wardrobe fatigue is the primary reason we ditch our old clothes and rush out to buy new duds. But what if we connected with others who are also uninspired by the contents of their closets? Sure, you can host a clothing swap in your living room, but the invitees will be limited to those you know—how predictable! Swapstyle.com allows you to expand your swapping potential by connecting with a vast database of those with garb to barter. The best part? Swapstyle.com transactions are money-free—all you ever pay is postage. After you've created an account, you simply start listing the products you have available to trade. Members who dig your duds will contact you to see if you'd like to swap for something they have (you, of course, can do the same). Once a match is made, ship off your goods and welcome your new pair of True Religion jeans or Stella McCartney shoes and whatever else completes your look.
Vintage clothing shops are also Reuse emporiums—the preferred destinations for snagging choice clothing and accessories at affordable prices. These days vintage shops are stocking much more than bowling shirts and pristine purple jumpsuits. You'll find items that spice up your everyday wardrobe and maybe even a piece or two that can be worn to the office. Don't have time to comb the racks at each location? The folks at Sprig.com and Jargol.com have done the work for you. Check out their lists of the best vintage shops in the United States and worldwide.
HUNT DOWN DEALS
Before you set out to score a new eco-look, check to see whether online deals and discounts are available. WhiteApricot.com is an excellent resource for locating bargains. The website's editors handpick deals on eco-clothing, shoes, and accessories, as well as organic skin care, natural cosmetics, and other stylish green products that are up to 50 percent less than retail prices. Savings can be instantaneously yours on clothing and accessories from illustrious eco-fashion labels like Stewart & Brown, Deborah Lindquist, Terra Planna, and Ecoist. Some offers are exclusive and can only be found on WhiteApricot.com or through the company's email newsletter (sign up for it today to get first dibs on new discounts).
No time to hunt for deals? You can always borrow your way to a killer eco-outfit. The right accessory may be just what you need. Bag Borrow or Steal (bagborroworsteal.com) lends users designer handbags, purses, jewelry, sunglasses, and other accessories at a fraction of the price of what it would cost to own. If you absolutely must have Chanel's 2.55 quilted bag, but are made dizzy by the $2,500+ price tag, borrow it for a week for $160 and give it back when you're done. Impress your date, dazzle the parents, or wow your boss while respecting your wallet and protecting the planet (borrowing gives others the chance to use the same item, which reduces our overall eco-impact).
Fashion Labels
AMERICAN APPAREL
Americanapparel.net
For the ultimate in organic cotton basics, turn to American Apparel. The clothing manufacturer pays its workforce fair, living wages to produce a sexy, youthful organic line that has moved away from earthy beige and is now available in a rainbow of colors.
ARIZONA JEANS
Azjeans.com
Arizona Jeans's new eco-collection is available at J.C. Penney. Instead of tossing in a landfill the cotton that's left over from the cotton mill, Arizona Jeans recycles it into jeans that retail for around $40 per pair. The company does the same thing with T-shirts, incorporating 60 percent recycled cotton. They can be yours for $20.
BAGIR
Bagir.com
This menswear company has leapfrogged to the forefront of affordable and sustainable style with its collection of eco-suits, which were introduced at Sears in 2008. The EcoGir collection features suits made of partially and 100 percent recycled materials that can also be machine-washed to avoid the need for dry cleaning.
BILLABONG
billabong.com
Whether you're looking for polo shirts made of organic cotton and stylized with bold graphics or funky board shorts made from recycled soda bottles, Billabong keeps the outdoor-oriented set moving in eco-style. Visit the website to find a list of participating retailers. Dogfunk.com is one such retailer that carries Billabong's eco-offerings at budget-friendly prices.
EILEEN FISHER
Eileenfisher.com
Eileen Fisher has boldly ventured into the world of organic cotton. Available at major retailers ranging from Nordstrom to TJ Maxx, Eileen Fisher offers plenty of age-appropriate shapes and styles. Eco-fashion newcomers can ease into the green fashion movement through items from this dependable and trusted brand.
GINA MICHELE
Ginamichele.com
Fun, feminine, and effortlessly chic, Gina Michele's Verde collection of dresses are made of soft bamboo jersey. Michele is being increasingly recognized for her ability to merge art with function. Now add eco-responsibility to the mix too. Prices start at just under $100.
GOOD SOCIETY
Goodsociety.org
Good Society delivers high-style, fair-trade certified organic cotton jeans for men and women, with prices ranging around $100. The styling is clean and sharp, and every pair purchased helps provide fair wages for the workers who produce them in India. Find them at Urban Outfitters and eco-boutiques around the country.
H&M
Hm.com
Stock up on affordable and trendy organic cotton duds for the entire family at your local H&M, a company that has steadily increased its use of organic cotton from 40 tons in 2005 to 1,700 tons in its spring 2008 collection. That number is set to increase by 50% in 2009 as H&M also begins introducing clothing for men and women made from recycled cotton, wool, and polyester.
LEVIS
Levis.com
Levis keeps it green with its 100 percent organic cotton Levis Eco denim collection featuring boot cut, straight, and slim cuts for men and women with prices that hover around $68 per pair.
MELISSA
Melissaaustralia.com.au
Melissa was started in Brazil 25 years ago and has since sold 50 million shoes made entirely of Melflex, a pliable, hypoallergenic, and odor-free recycled plastic material. The company's eco-mission extends beyond its footwear–99.9 percent of used water and waste generated at its factory gets recycled.
NVOHK
Nvohk.com
Based on a business model called crowd-funding, nvohk is a surf-inspired, eco-clothing company that's directed by the thousands of members who collectively own it. Members receive a 25 percent discount on all apparel, which is made from organic cotton and other sustainable fabrics, and collectively share in 35 percent of all net profits via reward points that can be redeemed for nvohk products.
Reuse Resources
BAG BORROW OR STEAL
Bagborroworsteal.com
Bag Borrow or Steal lends users designer handbags, purses, jewelry, sunglasses, and other accessories at a fraction of the price of what it would cost to own. In the movie Sex and the City, Carrie asks her new assistant, Louise, how she can afford such a fabulous new Louis Vuitton, to which Louise replies, "Bagborroworsteal.com."
DENIM THERAPY
Denimtherapy.com
Tattered jeans can be successfully repaired and restored by Denim Therapy at its facility in Cincinnati. For about $7 per inch of repair (plus $12 shipping), denim therapists will repair holes and rips and restore the look and feel of your jeans by considering the unique thread weight, fade, wash, pattern, weave, wear, and look of your go-to pair. Pop your jeans in the mail, and they'll be back to you and better than ever in just two to three weeks.
EVINTAGE SOCIETY
Evintagesociety.com
Start your exploration into the realm of vintage clothing at eVintage Society, an online vintage sellers' collective featuring more than 45 vintage retailers. You can shop at their stores and peruse their blogs to learn more about their passion for recycling, preservation, and reinvention of vintage clothing to accommodate all types of fashion sensibilities.
SWAP STYLE
Swapstyle.com
Swapstyle.com is like browsing through thousands of people's closets and picking out only the things you absolutely have to have. Swap accessories, cosmetics, and shoes with fashionistas all over the globe for free. All you pay is the price of shipping.
QUIKSILVER
Quiksilver.com
Guys and girls will dig the vibrant, fresh designs that are increasingly made of organic cotton by Quiksilver. From stylish tees to denim jeans, Quiksilver is rapidly introducing eco-friendly products that are sure to be a hit in dorms rooms everywhere.
ZOE & ZAC
Payless.com
Get ready for some fantastic deals for under $30 on fashionable footwear and accessories made from materials like organic cotton, hemp, and linen. Zoe & Zac is a new line from Payless available at 500 stores nationwide as well as online through the company's website. Eco-fashion model and green guru Summer Rayne Oakes is the eco-consultant on the project, so you know it's going to look good.
Ones to Watch
PATAGONIA
Patagonia.com
Patagonia has long been an eco-leader in the clothing industry. For years, the company has used 100 percent organic cotton in its casual and performance lines for men, women, and kids. It also uses lots of recycled materials, namely PET, a polyester fabric made from recycled soda bottles. In 2005, Patagonia started its Common Threads Garment Recycling Program, which enables the company to recycle its customers' used Patagonia garments into new Patagonia garments and thus greatly reduce the need for virgin materials. Buy it, wear it, and give it back to the company when you're done with it so it can be made into something new. That's a truly enlightened eco-business model.
ROGAN GREGORY FOR TARGET
Target.com
In 2008, Target teamed up with fashion designer Rogan Gregory to offer a limited-edition organic designer collection. Gregory is known for Loomstate, his organic denim line, as well as for his collaboration with Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson, on the socially responsible fashion label Edun. Within days of hitting store shelves, Rogan's 100-piece eco-collection was sold out, sending a resounding message to the fashion industry that consumers will shop green when the products are good and the price is right.
SUMMER RAYNE OAKES
Summerrayneoakes.com
Model, author, social entrepreneur, television host, and all around environmental rock star Summer Rayne Oakes leverages her beauty and brains to catalyze social and environmental change throughout the fashion industry. Her book, Style Naturally: The Savvy Shopping Guide to Sustainable Fashion and Beauty, is a must-read for both fashion insiders and eco-minded consumers. Oakes has also joined forces with Payless to bring affordable eco-friendly footwear and accessories to the masses through the company's Zoe & Zac collection.
WAL-MART
Walmart.com/earth
Wal-Mart is the world's largest purchaser of organic cotton, which it spins into 100 percent organic cotton pajamas for adults and complete organic cotton lines for children. Wal-Mart also features Coca-Cola's Drink2Wear line of T-shirts, made from 50 percent recycled Coca-Cola bottles, retailing for under $8 apiece and featuring witty eco-slogans like "Rehash Your Trash."
Information/Education
CHARTREUSE CHIC
Chartreusechic.blogspot.com
Eco-friendly fashionistas will relish the insights, reporting, and sweet eco-finds touted throughout this blog, which is dedicated to covering the green fashion world. A quick search function lets you read up on your favorite eco-designers. Links to many of the best eco-boutiques are also readily accessible.
FABULOUSLY GREEN
Fabgreen.com
If it's the latest in green fashion and design you're searching for, then Fabulously Green will rank high on your list. Daily updates are complemented by features like a quick drop-down menu that lets you zero in on the latest news about your favorite eco-designers.
G SPOTTING
Gspotting.net
Founded by Lazy Environmentalist team member Margaret Teich, G Spotting covers the unexpected side of green innovation in pop culture, funky fashion, nail polish, and hip hop. Discover how Teich and her Generation Y peers are pushing green into the mainstream.
THE LAZY ENVIRONMENTALIST
Lazyenvironmentalist.com/style
I've created a special page to keep Lazy Environmentalist readers updated about ongoing trends in the world of eco-fashion. Discover the most affordable and convenient ways to choose the right looks for you and the planet.
SPRIG
Sprig.com
Find lots of great content and commentary on green fashion, beauty, food, and home furnishings at this well-designed site that's owned by Washington Post/Newsweek. Editor Jeanie Pyun and her team keep the green insights coming on a daily basis. Check out the "Meet an Expert" section for interviews with today's top green innovators.
STYLE WILL SAVE US
Stylewillsaveus.com
The UK-based digital magazine "for a peachy life" focuses on uber-stylish, organic, ethical, fair-trade, eco-friendly, vintage, recycled, and sustainable fashion. Follow the trends, read interviews with industry insiders, and learn how style will save you, me, and everybody.
THREAD
Bbc.co.uk/thread
Leave it to the UK's BBC to introduce the most fun online eco-fashion magazine. Click on the moving pictures to read about hot eco-designers and cool sustainable trends. View photo slide-shows and videos, and get tips on developing your own personal eco-style.
WHITE APRICOT
Whiteapricot.com
Discover bargains and deals on eco-clothing, shoes, and accessories, as well as organic skin care, natural cosmetics, and other stylish green products that save up to 50 percent off retail prices. Some offers are exclusive and can only be found on WhiteApricot.com or through the company's email newsletter.
